Thursday, February 3, 2011

1952 Schwinn Klunker - Repainted

I finally decided to repaint my 1952 Schwinn. I lost the flamed fenders when I put on the knobblies, and fenderless is a little more "Klunker". I was looking for a color similar to Dan's Dodge pickup , a reddish orange, or orangeish red.



Arizona Dave had this can of Krylon Pimento paint. There wasn't enough and Ace Hardware had that new Rust-O-Leum 2X cover paint in a close-enough color, Paprika. Friggin' decorator color names. One is reddish orange and the other is orangeish red. I dislike Krylon, it always wants to run, which sucks if you are painting tubes. I am now heating up my spraycans in boiling water every time, they don't want to clog when you do that. It's an old model car builder trick, try it.


I painted the fork first, and that's when I ran out. I went and grabbed more paint at Ace and got it on there as soon as possible, too impatient to wait for it to dry so I could sand it, and too lazy to rough it up anyways.


So you can see a little of the color difference, just like I was saying, just off enough to make me repaint the fork.


This is the rack from the Monark. It looks really nice on the Schwinn, it functions well and keeps most of the mud off your back. I had to make the stays because the Monark was a 24" and this bike is a 26". I made them out of seat stays so they are tapered.


This Bendix hub is from the 50's and predates the Red Band, so it is correct for 1952. Made in Elmira, N.Y. It has a screw-on cog and left-threaded lockring like a fixed gear, but of course they are a different size. That cone wrench is a regular wrench from a BMW tool kit ground down real thin.


I use automotive high temperature disc brake bearing grease for coasterbrakes for an obvious reason, they get HOT. That is why they named the most famous Klunker trail Repack. You got to the bottom and repacked your hub. I have had coasterbrakes hot enough to sizzle if you spit on them.


This coasterbrake needs new shoes desperately, they are oil-impregnated bronze and worn the fuck out. There's quite a distance to backpedal before you get brake, and the "slack" is annoying. This shot sort of shows how it goes together, and that you must grease every surface.


More vintage Schwinn stuff, Clover chainwheel and 28tpi bottom bracket from a 1965 American and Diamond cranks from a late-model Varsity. A lot of Klunkers used this crank because it was stronger than the round cross-section crank. Sorry about the fake DX pedals.


I don't have a bike stand, and I don't really like them anyways. Schwinn cups go in easy, I think the press fits were a little looser in the 50's


I've seen bikes built this way on the Japanese websites by frail-looking old men, it seems to be a western thing to clamp a bike in a vise. I've built bikes upside down since I first started building my BMX bikes by myself.


I like how the color turned out, and the yellowish tan seat, and orangeish-brown weed grips sorta go with the orangeish red paint. Now all it needs is a drum brake and a big Magura motocross lever, a Bendix 76 Mexico coasterbrake, or a 2-speed kickback. I want to use rims designed for a disc brake because they look similar to the prewar drop-center rims.


The handlebars are Suzuki RM 250.


Yes, that is a real Mongoose Gold Stem.

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